South West Coast Path – Day 5
Woolacombe to Braunton
22 April 2023
Distance on Coast Path: 24.0km
Total distance: 24.5km; ascent: 200m
Walking time: 5h 12′
Total time: 6h 21′
Overnight: The Brookfield, South Street, Braunton
Coming down for breakfast it wasn’t difficult to spot the owners of the two bags already waiting for collection. One of the bags – a rucksack – was identical to one I owned a few decades ago. Two men at a table near me were of a similar vintage. We got talking. They were going to get a bus into Woolacombe, walk the Coast Path as far as Croyde Bay then get another bus to Braunton where they were staying the night in the same B&B as me. I offered them a lift in the taxi I had booked; they accepted. I learned their names – I shall call them Adrian and John*.
I needed to shop for a few things in Woolacombe so they were already on their way by the time I set off on the Path once more. This was to be a day of transition. Apart from a modest ascent to Baggy Point and an even smaller ascent to reach Croyde Bay it was “Goodbye hills, hello sand!” There was a change in the weather too.
At first I followed the Path through the dunes that back the vast beach of Woolacombe Sands, but after a while I got weary of the lack of views and the soft dry sand underfoot and moved onto the beach where the mostly firm sand was easier going. The views were better too.
Leaving the beach at the caravan and camping site at Putsborough I rejoined the Path out to Baggy Point. A few spots of rain came and went, then started steadily enough for me to put on waterproof trousers. The Point itself is dramatic, with steep cliffs of black rock dropping to the sea 300 feet below. Climbers were trying their luck on several routes. The light rain and drizzle continued intermittently as I followed the path down into Croyde Bay.
I was hailed by name as I passed the first café. Adrian and John were there and about to dive into coffees and scones with cream and jam. They invited me to join them. They wanted to repay my taxi lift; I declined anything to eat but accepted a coffee while we chatted and they ate their scones.
From Croyde Bay to Braunton by road is less than 7 kilometres, but the Path takes a devious (but level) route involving more sand. According to the Coast Path guide book, it’s not uncommon for people to skip some or all of this stretch, even the next day or two as the Path winds its way in and out of the Taw and Torridge estuaries passing through Braunton, Barnstaple and Bideford before reaching Appledore. At that point walkers are less than 2 kilometres from Crow Point which they will have passed on the other side of the estuary two days before.
Sticking to my original plan I continued on the Path first to Saunton (toilets, surf shops, café) then along the l-o-n-g track behind Braunton Burrows, first through a golf course (no views) then past the military training area (still no views) and finally along a long, wide, straight gravel road to the car park at Crow Point. It was dull, I was tired and by the time I reached the car park it was raining steadily. I didn’t have the energy to walk out to the Point itself.
The final few kilometres back into Braunton were tedious. Thankfully I decided not to take the Path shown on the map hugging the coast around Horsey Island, opting instead for the shorter tarmac toll road. The road is separated from the mud flats and marshes of the estuary by a flood dyke which has a gravel track on its level top. Horsey Island on my right was a dreary and desolate place, more so in the rain. It was only at the far end that I came to a ‘Path Closed’ sign where the Horsey Island route should join the road; I was thankful I hadn’t tried to get through.
I had a warm welcome at The Brookfield B&B where my wet things were taken away to be dried in the boiler room. Adrian and John had arrived, though I didn’t see them until I walked into the busy SQ Restaurant and Bar for a meal and found them already there. I joined them and we ate together exchanging life stories – a pleasant end to a tiring day.
* Not their real names as I didn’t ask their permission to use them.
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