South West Coast Path – Day 2
Porlock Weir to Lynton
19 April 2023
Distance on Coast Path: 18.9km
Total distance: 19.2km; ascent: 613m
Walking time: 4h 51′
Total time: 6h 04′
Overnight: The Crown Hotel, Lynton
The Path from Porlock Weir to Lynmouth goes mostly through woods which cling to the steep north-facing slopes of the cliffs. The woods are dense and ancient. Fallen timber, from branches to whole trees, is everywhere, including in several cases across the Path itself. Streams tumble down the steep slopes forming mostly small combes; the Path drops to cross these and rises again on the other side.
About 5 kilometres from Porlock Weir is Culbone Church, dedicated to the Welsh saint St Beuno, pronounced ‘Bayno’. Its carefully-worded claim is that it is “the smallest complete parish church in this country”. It is certainly tiny and is not accessible by any public road, although a private unsurfaced road serves the church and the few dwellings close to it. Services are held fortnightly.
The weather was a repeat of the previous day – cool and cloudy all morning, clearing to sunshine around 1230. I met hardly anyone all day until I got close to the car park at County Gate. Here at the entrance to the extensive grounds of Glenthorne House a pair of gateposts each topped with a boar’s head straddles the Path.
I didn’t divert to the viewpoint of Foreland Point but kept on until the Path dropped down into Lynmouth, avoiding the main road on a zig-zag path lined with primroses. I had a cup of tea by the harbour wall, then took the cliff railway up to Lynton and my hotel.
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