Penzance to Porthleven

7 June 2025

Distance on Coast Path: 23.0km; ascent: 282m

Total distance: 23.0km; ascent: 282m

Walking time: 5h 23′

Total time: 7h 13′

Overnight: Self-catering, Helston

Logistics: To start: U4 bus Helston – Penzance station. Finish: U4 bus Porthleven harbour – Helston

The weather forecast for the first part of the day was grim: heavy rain, thunderstorms and strong winds, so although it was dry in Penzance I set off in waterproofs. It was grey and murky with just a hint of drizzle in the air.

The first stretch of the Coast Path is a concrete foot- and cycle path between the railway line and the foreshore; a high wire fence separates it from the railway. As the Path and railway diverge the concrete path continues and follows the road into Marazion. Along this section I was hit by the only heavy rain of the day – a squall lasting about ten minutes. There was another burst of heavy drizzle as I stopped for a short break outside a church in Marazion but that was the last of the rain. The forecast heavy storms never happened; there was even some sunshine later.

Marazion, of course, is the access point for St Michael’s Mount and therefore busy despite the poor weather. The causeway was under water as I passed through but I think the boat service was running (I didn’t stop to investigate).

St Michael’s Mount from Marazion

After Marazion the Path returns to its more usual state, varying underfoot between broader paths and tracks and narrow single-track. At this time of year the narrow sections were very overgrown with head-high bracken, nettles, brambles and other bushes, and tall grasses with heavy ripe seed heads. In those conditions it’s difficult to see the ground and know where you’re putting your feet so progress can be slow. From time to time I walked with my hands on my head and my forearms in front acting like bull-bars to push through the overgrowth.

St Michael’s Mount finally disappeared from view as I rounded Cudden Point. Shortly after, two abandoned cottages were an incongruous sight.

Abandoned and derelict cottage.

As the weather cleared later I stopped for a cup of tea at Praa Sands. So far the path had been mostly level but from the far side of the beach the last few kilometres of the day were more up-and-down. I passed a couple resting at the side of the path who caught me up while I looked at the map at a path junction just after I’d passed an old tin mine engine house: a Coast Path sign pointed downhill to the right, a standard footpath sign pointed straight ahead. We got into conversation as I explained I was thinking of taking the short cut rather than the official Path – they were Dutch and were spending several weeks walking the Path. I left them making up their minds, and when I looked back I saw they were following me.

They caught me again on one of the last uphill sections and we walked into Porthleven together, though I hurried ahead as we reached the first houses after I checked my watch and saw that the bus back to Helston was almost due. I made it in time and we waved goodbye as they passed the bus stop a few minutes later. I thought I might see them the next day, but I didn’t come across them again.

Porthleven Harbour