Land’s End to Penberth Cove

25 September 2024

Distance on Coast Path: 11.0km; ascent: 220m

Total distance: 12.3km; ascent: 299m

Walking time: 3h 10′

Total time: 5h 23”

Overnight: Self-catering, Trewellard

It was raining. Leaving the car in the car park by the campsite in Treen village I walked back to the ‘main’ road and caught the Coaster bus which dropped me at the Land’s End parking area around 9.45. I walked in the blustery wind and rain to the visitor centre thinking I’d have a coffee before setting off. It was almost deserted; the café and shops were closed but were set to open at 10, so with the weather forecast saying it would improve by mid-morning I hung around and became the café’s first customer of the day.

Enys Dodnan rock arch near Land’s End

It was still raining when I set off twenty minutes later but the sky was already showing signs of clearing. By around 10.45 the rain had almost stopped and the weather continued to get better for the rest of the day.

It was easy going today – mostly level walking on good paths across moorland and heath, with honeysuckle in flower among the thorns and gorse. The few downs-and-ups had easy gradients and the occasional rocky steps along the way needed no scrambling.

Rusty anchor at Gwennap Head

A little further I came to the tiny hamlet of Porthgwarra: a few cottages, one or two boats in the cove, and most surprising an apparently flourishing wooden hut selling food (hot and cold), drinks and ice cream. There were several customers being served; I was tempted but I had a plan for lunch not too far away.

Just as I was leaving the cove I saw a tunnel through the cliff. It led out to the tiny beach.

Rock tunnel at Porthgwarra

The Minack Theatre

The Minack Theatre just before Porthcurno was on my ‘must visit’ list and that is where I was heading for lunch. They ask you to book a timed ticket in advance: I’d booked for 12.30 and arrived at 12.45, firmly within the half hour leeway allowed.

Passing through the ticket check and looking over the barrier the view of the theatre below was surreal. Such a structure carved out of the cliffs and set in exotic gardens is astonishing, even more so when you learn the story of the unquenchable determination of Rowena Cade, the extraordinary woman who drove the project through decades of hard labour by herself and a small number of helpers.

Minack Theatre: https://minack.com/

I had a thick wedge of an over-generously filled tuna sandwich and a carton of apple juice for lunch before visiting the theatre museum which tells the story, and then wandered around the tiers and gardens of the theatre. The stage was busy with several groups of schoolchildren taking turns to act out a scene or story under the guidance of a teacher. They looked to be having a great time!

* A “logan stone” is the name given to a large rocking stone, usually one that can be moved by one person. Sadly, the one on Treryn Dinas no longer rocks.