It was a while ago that I decided to take a few days to revive my flagging Munro-bagging efforts – it had been 11 years since I last stood on a Munro summit. I needed to be within easy travelling distance of the Glasgow – Edinburgh area so I opted to pick off a few in the southern highlands.

Sunday 23 August – Ben Lomond

I’d always travelled further north than the most southerly Munro so was determined to visit it this time. I drove up on Saturday and checked in at the Rowardennan Hotel simply because it’s right at the start of the tourist route up the mountain.

I knew Ben Lomond was popular and it was a Sunday, but I wasn’t expecting the crowds to be so big! The clear and well-trodden path is maintained and in places restored and protected by the National Trust for Scotland. Starting through woodland before reaching the open hillside it rises in a series of steeper sections separated by easier gradients. Despite my early start there were already people coming down as I headed up. Looking back I could see more and more people on the path below. Almost everyone exchanged friendly greetings, which was nice. My southern accent made me feel a bit self-conscious, having been variously greeted as ‘Pal’, ‘Big Man’ and ‘Bruh’.

Loch Lomond on a dull day.

The summit itself was crowded: snacks were being eaten, selfies were being taken. There was nothing precious about this Munro; today it was the People’s Munro.

The crowded summit.

For the sake of simplicity and speed I returned the same way. Among the crowds, two or three people still going up asked “Is it far to the top?” I answered as best I could. Then it was back to the hotel to pick up the car and drive to the Lochearnhead Hotel.

Did I mention the midges? There were midges. Plenty of them.

Monday 24 August – Ben Chonzie

A driveable track leaves the narrow public road at Invergeldie in Glen Lednock above Comrie; it’s possible to park at the side of the road there. I assume the track exists to support grouse shooting because it ends high on the slopes of Ben Chonzie. It’s rather a dull slog although the wide open views that open up behind are worth turning round to admire.

Near the end of the track, before the final bends, a pile of stones on the left marks the start of what looked like a squelchy path towards the summit. I continued on the main track for another few hundred metres to a second pile of stones at the start of another path. This duly led to the broad grassy summit ridge with the summit in view a kilometre away round the eastern corrie above Glen Turret. A line of old and twisted iron fence posts would guide the way in mist.

Ben Chonzie has a reputation for being one of the duller Munros. The SMC District Guide says “the summit plateau is rather featureless”. However on my visit, with clear and improving weather, wide views, the reservoir in Glen Turret visible below and few other people, I’ve been on plenty of less attractive summits.

I returned by the same route.

The Invergeldie Burn

View back from the track

Ben Chonzie summit

Fence posts

Wednesday 26 August – Ben Vane (Arrochar)

Tuesday was a write-off. One of those named storms passed through; the mountain weather forecast was for “hurricane force winds on the summits and incessant heavy rain” all day. I spent the day at the hotel with a book.

Wednesday started rather dreich, so expecting Ben Vane to take only about 4 hours I didn’t set off from the car park at Inveruglas on Loch Lomond until nearly 11.30. Currently measured at 916 metres, Ben Vane just creeps into the list of Munros at number 280 out of 283. I had missed climbing it when I climbed all the other Arrochar Munros some years ago.

I followed the recommended route up the road towards the Loch Sloy dam, turning left before the dam to pass a small spur and cross a bridge over a burn. The path up the broad south-east ridge starts just beyond the bridge.

Judging by the large pile of empty bags – the huge ones used to carry rocks slung under helicopters – the path had only recently had some maintenance. It’s steep, and for the lower half and parts of the upper half the maintenance work has created an unrelenting stone staircase. Mist and drizzle came and went; crags loomed ahead, looking larger in the mist than they are in reality. Going was slow as I got higher and more tired; two or three short scrambles on wet rock slowed me down even more. I found myself looking at my altimeter every few minutes to see how much more climbing I had to do.

But as a Munro companion once remarked many years ago, “Every hill will surely succumb to a prolonged and determined assault”, and I finally reached the small summit plateau. The rain stopped, and views broken by lower clouds opened up with Loch Sloy visible 600 metres below.

I spent a little while on the summit to recover and consider my options. The thought of jolting my knees back down the unrelenting stone staircase and doubts about the safety of getting down the wet scrambles on my own made me think about other ways down. I remembered the guidebook had suggested heading north and then descending to the loch and the dam, and now that most of that route was visible that’s what I decided to do.

It worked out well. The eastern flank is a mixture of long grass, marsh reeds and small crags and it wasn’t difficult to pick a way down. If there is a path on this side I didn’t find it. I did find that the quickest way to lose height on the steeper ground was to glissade* in the waterproof trousers I was still wearing. That way I eventually reached the dam, crossed it to reach the access road, and walked the final few kilometres back to Loch Lomond and the car.

Ben Vane approach

Ben Vane summit

Ben Vane summit

Ben Vane in cloud

Loch Sloy dam

Instead of the four hours or so I had expected the whole trip had taken me six and a quarter. To paraphrase Shakespeare, “Though Ben Vane be but little she is fierce”.

* a technical term for bum-slide.

Saturday 25 September

Inverness Airport, 1315

I’ve had a phone call on my mobile from Ben telling me he’ll be about 15 minutes late for our rendezvous. He’s bringing the North-West Frontiers Transit van down from Ullapool to Fort William, and is diverting via the airport to pick me up. This will save me a wait in Inverness and a two-hour bus ride which would get me to Fort William an hour after the scheduled meeting time for the rest of the group. Ben is the same leader I walked with last year.

Fort William B&B, 1620

We arrived here about half an hour ago – the Rhu Mhor Guest House. It’s an old house in its own garden and grounds on the hillside above the town centre, and is run by Ian who was wearing a kilt when he came out to greet the two of us. I’ve got a pleasant single room, and have just unpacked a few things. The whole group is due to meet here at 7 o’clock, but meanwhile I’m heading down into the town to have a look round the shops and get a cup of tea in Nevisport. We’re going to eat together this evening, though I’m not sure where – the choice in Fort William on a Saturday night isn’t that great!

Fort William B&B, 2220

I met the others as planned: Jim and Bob are friends from near Northampton; Andy from Oldham; American Chris from South Carolina; Matt, another American from Washington DC; Eileen and her sister Morag have driven from Stirling. We’ve all got on fine during the evening. We ended up at the Alexandra – no space in Nevisport for us all to sit together. This is my
second trip with North-West Frontiers and this time we’re planning to make our way up the north-west of Scotland from Fort William to Ullapool, taking in six of the classic Scottish ridges on the way. If all goes well we’ll be doing

• Carn Mor Dearg arète on Ben Nevis
• Aonach Eagach (Glencoe)
• Forcan Ridge on The Saddle (Glen Shiel)
• Coire Dhorrcail circuit on Ladhar Bheinn (Knoydart)
• Liathach (Torridon)
• An Teallach (Dundonell)

The weather forecast’s not good for the next few days though, so we may have to rethink.

Carn Mor Dearg

Sunday 26 September

Carn Mor Dearg. Total ascent: 1080m Distance: 14km

Fort William B&B, 0840

We’re due off in a few minutes, and it’s a grey drizzly morning. It’s been a bit of a rush, because Ian (still kilted) hasn’t adopted the breakfast buffet and takes individual orders from everyone. “Would you like orange juice?” “Would you like porridge?” “Would you like bacon and egg?” “How many eggs?” “Would you like them fried, scrambled or poached?” “Would you like mushrooms?” “Would you like baked beans?” and so on. Then on to the next person. He’s a talking menu. Anyway, we’re off up Glen Nevis to climb Carn Mor Dearg and the ridge onto Ben Nevis.

Steall ruins, Glen Nevis, 1525

I don’t remember ever being wetter on the hill! We parked at the top end of Glen Nevis, walked in to Steall, then turned north up the Allt Coire Giubhsachan glen. The path was boggy enough, but the two level sections were worse. It started to rain as we paused at the top of the first uphill section, and it continued without a break. We reached the col between Carn Mor Dearg and Aonach Mor and turned west up the ridge into the mist. By then the magic water-pumping system of my Paramo jacket and trousers had been overwhelmed by the volume of rain falling on them, and I felt the first trickle of water down my sleeve and trouser leg. As we toiled up the ridge the wind increased, with gusts strong enough to make us hit the ground until the blast subsided.

Finally at the summit of Carn Mor Dearg, a quick discussion about the arète onto Ben Nevis. Rain, mist, increasing winds and the common misery of being soaked meant only one outcome: down, and as quickly as possible. We reversed the route, which was considerably wetter than earlier as the hours of rain on waterlogged ground ran off into the streams pouring into the glen. Matt and I found ourselves well ahead of the others and we’ve been waiting here for about ten minutes. Matt’s been attending to his blistered feet. Ironically the rain finally stopped about 20 minutes ago, and while we’ve been here we’ve even had a fleeting glimpse of the sun. My Paramo gear is drying out.

Fort William B&B, 2220

All down safely – back to the B&B for showers and dry clothes – met in Nevisport at 1900 and ate there. My notebook has become a solid wad of wet paper but Matt’s problem’s worse – his money has gone the same way. He’s got each note spread out on his bed to dry. Ben’s worried about taking 8 people along Aonach Eagach in the wet tomorrow.

Forcan Ridge, The Saddle

Monday 27 September

Sgurr na Forcan, E Top, The Saddle, Trig Point Total ascent: 1100m Distance: 9.5km
Time: 6h50′

Bealach north of Meallan Odhar, 1140

I’ve gained a few minutes here by charging up the good well-graded stalkers’ path ahead of the others. Ben decided we wouldn’t do Aonach Eagach, and we shopped for food in Fort William before driving to Glen Shiel. We’ve left the van by the side of the road. I can see the first bit of the Forcan ridge, but higher up it’s in mist. It’s just started raining.

Heading to the Forcan Ridge and the Saddle

Old School Lodge, Dornie, 2245

A second day of rain and mist, though not quite as wet as yesterday. The Forcan Ridge is an easy scramble, and the wet conditions didn’t really make much difference. It’s possible to avoid almost all the scrambling by taking paths below the ridge line, but everyone opted for at least some of Ben’s “sporting routes”. There was one move which called for an inelegant rock-hugging grovel, and another involving a trouser-ripping à cheval shuffle along a metre or two of razor-edged rock (all the while looking at the quite reasonable path only a few metres below). Ben had produced a rope by this point, for which Eileen was grateful. The scrambly part of the ridge ends at Sgurr na Forcan, after which the route continues over the East Top to the summit of The Saddle. Two hundred metres further is the alternative Trig Point summit, officially lower though given the same height in the SMC’s Munro tables.

From the trig point we headed down to join a path which contours Coire Mhalagain and meets the ascent route at the foot of the Forcan Ridge. Chris took an uncomfortable fall on a bouldery bit of this path, pulling a ligament in his knee and adding to the discomfort he was already suffering from a sore toe and bruised toe-nail. I kept him company on the path back to the van while the others went on – Eileen and Morag drove themselves and two others to Dornie for showers and dry clothes.

We’re staying at The Old School Lodge in Dornie, a self-catering guest house. We ate in the Dornie Hotel (good choice of menu, including the possibly unique offering of Trio of Black Pudding and Haggis”, but no venison, despite it being the deer-stalking season). Long discussion with republican Matt after dinner over the merits of George W Bush’s foreign and domestic policies and the coming US election. We have the prospect of Ben cooking breakfast for us tomorrow.

Ladhar Bheinn, Knoydart

Tuesday 28 September

Ladhar Bheinn, Stob a’ Choire Odhair Total ascent: 1220m Distance: 13.5km Time: 7h35′

Old School Lodge, Dornie, 0840

Yet another of Ben’s talents revealed! He’s produced orange juice, porridge, toast, tea, coffee, and for those who wanted, quantities of bacon and eggs (fried, boiled or scrambled). Wet gear has mostly dried, though our boots are still very damp. We’re leaving in a few minutes to drive to Arnisdale, where we’re getting a boat (“It’s new, made entirely out of tin”, says Ben, “with a 75 horsepower outboard motor.”) over to Knoydart. His friend Murray owns and drives it.

Arnisdale, 1005

It’s taken the best part of an hour to drive here. I’ve never been further down this road than than Glenelg (the only palindromic place-name in Scotland?) before. Ben played his Joni Mitchell tape and regaled us with fencing stories. That’s posts and wire, not foil and epée. He does it to make money when he’s not leading.

For “tin” read “aluminium”. No concessions to comfort or luxury on Murray’s boat – it’s designed exclusively for function. Murray himself sports industrial grade orange waterproofs and a Beckham beanie.

Chris isn’t coming with us: he’s decided his knee injury and sore foot need a day’s rest. Ben’s arranged for Murray to come back for him after he’s dropped us and take him to a remote point on the Knoydart shore where there’s a rudimentary shelter with cooking facilities. Chris plans to spend the day writing and taking photos (he’s a journalist, among other things) until Murray picks him up again. Matt, on the other hand, has swathed his raw feet in yards of sports strapping tape and is determined to keep going. He produced an enormous sausage of stuff wrapped in cling-film from his rucksack
and left it in the van – “Dry clothes!”, he announced proudly, “I’m learning!”

Barrisdale Bothy, 1100

Murray dropped us at the entrance to Barrisdale Bay, about 1.5km from here. They’ve installed electricity since I was last here in 1996, but the green caravan which Doug and I stayed in next to the bothy has gone. It’s not raining but the hills are covered in mist.

A large rock in Gleann Coire Dhorrcaill, 1240

Sodden bracken! That’s what we’ve been walking through. The stalkers’ path from Barrisdale into this glen squelches across the flat land by the shore then heads up in zigzags through bracken, always waist high, sometimes up to our chests. Fooled by the “dry” weather (it’s not raining) no-one had put on waterproofs, so we’ve been drenched. My trousers have been wringing wet for the best part of an hour. Those stalkers must be having a good laugh – as soon as their path emerges from a patch of bracken into the open it zigs or zags straight back into the bracken again. And it’s a bog underfoot too. Andy’s been experimenting with his zip-off trousers: at one time he had the waterlogged lower parts unzipped and wrapped round his ankles; another time I looked back and he had one leg zipped on and the other off. He’s hereafter to be known as Andy the Half-Trousered. We’ve stopped now for lunch.

Dornie, 1950

Back at last, half an hour ago. It’s been a long day. An emerging problem with this trip is that there’s no spare time – we were late getting back for Murray’s pick-up, then an hour back here, and now we’re meeting in the Dornie Hotel at 8 o’clock to get something to eat. Will try to write more later.

Dornie, 2310

Another good meal in the Hotel, but the venison on the menu was still “off”. Got a few things washed and hanging over the heated towel rail, and now ready for bed. Looking back over the rest of the day ——

Not my day for river crossings. Managed to fall in the first one, soaking myself up to the waist, just after I’d dried out from the bracken. Then on the way back, took off boots and socks to cross the Allt Coire Dhorrcail and managed to leave my right sorbothane insole on the far bank. Didn’t go back for it.

After the lunch stop, we carried on up the glen towards the head of the Coire, with ever-improving rock scenery, though the tops were still in cloud. Before getting into the coire bowl the path moves left up a steep slope (35 – 40 degrees) to make for the Bealach Coire Dhorrcail. The path was a wet grassy squelch all the way to the col. Everyone’s energy seemed low today, and it was well into the afternoon by the time we got there. Things improved as we went up the ridge – the mist cleared from time to time but never enough to give us any real views of Coire Dhorrcail or the rest of Knoydart. We did get a rainbow though, and some of the others saw a group brockenspectre. Matt and I, ahead at the time, missed it. At the Ladhar Bheinn summit, rugby-playing Matt declared himself a “Mean Munro-bagging Machine”. A quick break on the summit, then along the remaining section of the ridge to Stob a’ Choire Odhair before heading down.

By now Ben was getting worried about the time – we were due at our boat pick-up by 1730. Our route followed the meandering ridge (“purposeless”, I ubbed it) of Druim a’ Choire Odhair before we dropped down to the bottom of the glen. Ben decided to go on ahead so he could warn Murray we’d be a bit late. Following, we got down – and back into the boggy ground – crossed the river (losing my insole), and retraced our morning’s path until we could follow the river down to its mouth at Inbhir Dhorrcail. Warned by Ben, we’d put on waterproofs before leaving the path and made our way for a kilometre and a half through long soaking grass, brush and scrub down to the shore where Murray and Ben were waiting with the boat. Despite the terrain we were only 20 minutes late.

Postcard of a damp day on Ladhar Bheinn

Back in Arnisdale we met up with Chris, who’d had a much less eventful day but was pleased to have got some photographs and writing done. Then more Joni Mitchell on the drive back to Dornie.

A’ Ghlas Bheinn, Inverinate

Wednesday 29 September

A’ Ghlas-bheinn Total ascent: 960m Distance: 10km Time: 5h20′

Dornie, 0845

As we’ve got a day in hand, and yesterday being long and tiring, we’re going for an easy day today. I’ve climbed A’ Ghlas Bheinn before, with Jonathan in 1992.

Morag, Eileen and Ben crossing the Abhainn Chonaig

Dornie, 1715

A good day, and back early! Not much to say about the walk – we left the van at the parking in the Country Park where the track goes off to the Falls of Glomach, crossed the bridge, and followed the good dry path up Gleann Choinneachan to the Bealach an Sgairne. For a change the weather was dry and clear, so we had good views down into the upper reaches of Glen Affric. Then on a good path up the bumpy ridge with its many false summits, to the summit of A’ Ghlas Bheinn. Down the other side, leaving the path and opting for more bog instead, heading cross-country roughly WNW to the bridge on the edge of the forest at GR984238 and the track back to the van. No waterproofs all day!

We’ve had time for more conversation today. There seems to be a Grumpy Old Men’s Club forming, with Jim and myself as founder members. (Jim, on my mentioning earlier in the week that England had lost to the West Indies in the final of a cricket competition: “Is that some kind of sport-related thing?”) Bob is an honorary member, but is far too nice to be a real grump. We’re monitoring Ben’s performance for when we fill in our feedback questionnaires. This includes his “professionalism” and “enthusiasm” as well as his standard of driving. He’s also supposed to tell us about local culture, fauna and flora, and so on. We’re not sure whether tales of fence- and shed-building count as culture, but are prepared to concede that stories of excessive drinking in isolated Scottish communities earn a tick in the box.

Dornie, 2310

Into the Dornie Hotel early this evening. Morag and Eileen already there with their standard order of a gin and slimline tonic and a rum and coke. Still no venison. Chris as usual last to arrive and first to leave. Matt, Andy and I finished the evening playing pool, with honours even at the end: Matt beat me, Andy beat Matt, I beat Andy. I’ve packed as much as I can ready for moving on to Ullapool tomorrow.

Liathach, Torridon

Thursday 30 September

Liathach –Stob a’ Choir Leith Mhor, Spidean a’ Choire Leith, Mullach an Rathain Total ascent: 1400m Distance: 9.5km Time: 6h45′

In the van en route Torridon – Ullapool, 1820

A gruelling day! Very wet – again. No chance to write anything earlier, and not the best time now. Suggested to Chris at the beginning of the week that “An Odyssey in Shades of Grey” would make a good subtitle for an illustrated article about this trip: Liathach, “The Grey One”, has played its part well. Although the five of us who set out this morning (Matt, Morag, Jim, me, and Ben) achieved our traverse of this fine mountain, grey has been all we’ve seen. Emotions a mixture of satisfaction to have climbed it but disappointment that what could have been a splendid day in better conditions became just another tick on the list.

Riverside Hotel, Ullapool, 2310

It’s all been rushing about. We didn’t get here until well after 7, and after standing around hugging piles of wet clothing in Reception got checked in about 7.30. We agreed to meet in the Argyll Hotel at 8.15, late by local eating standards. My room here’s not en-suite and someone was in the bathroom, so by he time I’d sorted my stuff out it was time to go back out. Got back about forty minutes ago and have just had a HOT BATH. Wonderful!

What of the day? Well, in summary – – Waterproofs on in the car park at the start of the Coire Dubh Mor track. Everyone set off, but after the first kilometre when the route for the east end of Liathach leaves the path, debated whether to go for it or do something else. Eventually four takers – me, Jim, Morag and Matt, plus Ben. The others decided to stay low, and did the walk into Coire Dubh.

Sandstone slabs with slippery lichen and interspersed with heather slope up to the foot of a rough zig-zag path climbing very steeply to the shoulder of Stuc a’ Choire Duibh Bhig. This felt like the longest/steepest sustained ascent I’ve done in Scotland. Then easier gradients over intervening tops with quartzite blocks at higher levels leading over Stob a’ Choir Leith Mhor to finally reach the main summit at Spidean a’ Choire Leith. The guidebooks warn of the difficulties of finding the way off the conical peak of the main summit: Ben fell into the trap, landing us with a half-hour traverse over loose blocks of quartzite before we picked up the ridge towards Am Fasarinen. Opted out of the Fasarinen pinnacles and took the narrow path which by-passes them on the S side of the ridge. Exposed in places, but we couldn’t see down anyway. More undulations, and finally the second summit Mullach an Rathain, which must be the hardest-won Munro yet. Descent first over loose scree then the inevitable boggy path, getting back to the road towards dusk (the others had driven the van back to collect us). Complete change into dry clothes at the roadside, then long drive to Ullapool and the Riverside Hotel.

The Argyll for dinner was Ben’s suggestion, and seems a good choice. There was even venison – medallions, casserole, or sausages. Marco and Judith (of North-West Frontiers, based in Ullapool) arrived during the evening and listened patiently to our stories of the week so far. There was talk of tomorrow, which is scheduled to be An Teallach, but the forecast is threatening and it’s a more serious day than today, especially with a larger group. We’ve put the final decision off to tomorrow.

Suilven, Assynt

Friday 1 October

Suilven Total ascent: 1030m Distance: 18km ime: 7h20′

Riverside Hotel, Ullapool, 0755

Still feeling a bit disappointed about Liathach yesterday. We neither saw the mountain itself dominating the views from Torridon, nor the awe-inspiring scenery along the ridge which features in the guidebooks and makes it one of the top objectives for mountain-goers in Scotland. I can’t help feeling I’m going to have to come back and climb it again in better conditions.

Eileen said we all looked as grey as the mountain weather when we got back to the van yesterday.

Ullapool, 0905

The weather looks fine today – blue skies when we were down for breakfast, but tell-tale lenticular clouds warn of the approaching storm and gale-force winds which are forecast for later in the day. Ben hasn’t arrived yet but I somehow think we won’t be heading for An Teallach.

Suileag Bothy, 1130

We’re on the walk-in to Suilven, the mountain that dominates the area around Lochinver. It looks like a sugar-loaf dome when you see it end-on from the coast, and a long ridge rising out of the surrounding flat landscape when viewed from the side. At 731m (2400 feet) its highest point, the top of Caisteal Liath, the Grey Castle, doesn’t even reach Corbett status, but I’m really glad to be on the way to climb it: in 1988 we spent a week’s family holiday staying just outside Lochinver, and I always felt it would be great to stand on top of Suilven’s astonishing dome. Now’s my chance.

It takes about 45 minutes to get to Lochinver from Ullapool. We’ve parked the van at the parking place about 800m from the end of the road leading to Glencanisp Lodge, and walked from there along a good DRY 4-wheel-driveable rack, turning off to stop in this fine bothy for elevenses. The sky’s more cloudy now, but the storm hasn’t arrived yet and it doesn’t look like we’ll get any rain at least for the next few hours.

Eileen, Morag, Matt (facing away), Andy, Jim, Ben, Bob below Suilven

Parking place near Glencanisp Lodge, 1700

We’ve had an excellent day – no rain, and dry underfoot apart from one boggy section between the access track and the foot of the climb up to the col on Suilven’s ridge.

The short climb up to the col looks dauntingly steep from a distance, but as you get closer the perspective changes and a stony path becomes visible. We took it fairly slowly up to the col, with me bringing up the rear. Two red deer stood close to the path above us and only moved when the front people were about 30 metres from them.

From the col it was an easy walk to the top, a surprisingly wide and flattish area of short grass. The 180-degree views were splendid. A small cairn about 100m west marks another viewpoint which gives views down onto Lochinver and the near coast. The grass continues deceptively downwards at an easy, but steepening, gradient – you could easily lose quite a bit of height here and suddenly find yourself on the edge of a vertical drop. Sprawled on the grass we realised the wind had strengthened, and when we stood up to go we were hit by a strong cold blast which sent us hurrying back to the col and the shelter of the lee side of the ridge. Andy and Bob were keen to go to the other top, eastward along the ridge, so they and Ben left their rucksacks and “ran” along the ridge. The rest of us picked our way back down the way we’d come up and retraced our approach route back to the driveable track, past the turn for the bothy, and eventually by Glencanisp Lodge to get back here to the van about 10 minutes ago. We’ve taken bets on when the others will get here – guesses vary from 1720 to as late as 1800.

Looking east along Suilven’s Ridge

Chris hasn’t been with us today: he wanted to get someone medically qualified to look at his damaged toe. He’s also got all his clothes in one bag small enough to go as airline cabin baggage, and is heading for Switzerland tomorrow so needs to get to a launderette. Marco’s offered to meet up with him late morning and take him on a car ride to see the Assynt scenery.

Ullapool, 2340

Chris has had a good day – treatment on his toe, clean laundry and a “Wow!”-inspiring trip with Marco. They made it to Lochinver and our parked van, as well as some places on the coast.

Had a good fun final night in the Argyll. We’d finished our meal by about 8.45 and moved tables to stay around for the promised live music, The Goodges, a husband-and-wife duo whose flyer promised a mix of music from the 70’s onwards. Despite not delivering any of the Pink Floyd their poster promised, they were surprisingly good and entertaining. They even got Ben dancing! A few beers and malts were drunk, Marco and Judith turned up and bought a round, and we finally left when the music finished at 11.00. All
that’s left is to pack. We have to leave soon after 9.00 tomorrow as Andy has an early train to catch from Inverness.

Saturday 2 October

Departure Lounge, Inverness Airport, 1045

And so it’s over. Chris has gone to board his Easyjet flight, Jim and Bob are spending the day in Inverness before their flight later this afternoon, and my BMI flight goes in about two and a half hours. Andy’s on the train, Matt’s on his way to Edinburgh, and Morag and Eileen will be heading back in their car. We’ve said our farewells and “See you on the hill”s. It’s been a shame about the weather this week – no Aonach Eagach, no Carn Mor Dearg arète, no An Teallach – but I don’t think we could have done anything more or better in the circumstances. The itinerary is demanding on time, and I would have been glad for a bit more slack in the schedule. It’s been a good group though, and I’ve enjoyed the companionship on the hills. Now, what about 2005 . . .?

Introduction

This week I was based on the north shore of Loch Leven, leading a “Munro Bagging” holiday for HF Holidays. The week was badly affected by gales: wind speeds on the summits and high ridges never fell below 40mph, and on several days reached 60 gusting to maybe 70mph. The hill forecast for Friday predicted winds further north in the Western Highlands gusting to 100mph.

Munros in bold, tops in normal text, * = climbed previously. All grid references have prefix NN, and are on OS 1:50,000 series sheet numbers 41 or 50.

Thanks to Clive T for all the display photos on this page!

Diary

Sunday 5 October – Glencoe

Stob an Fhuarain – Sgor na h-Ulaidh

We followed the Gleann-leac-na-muidhe track to the gate just before the farm and headed up the hillside beside the plantation. There is 650 metres of climbing on rough grass (no path) at an angle of 35 – 40 degrees to reach the ridge. Once on the ridge there is an intermittent path over Stob an Fhuarain to the main summit. Fence posts indicate the path down the NW ridge and into the glen. Slippery slabs need a wide detour on the right to avoid difficulties in the wet. We crossed to the R side of the river and followed it back to the farm and our pick-up point. We were in mist and rain from the time we reached the ridge.

From start of Gleann-leac-na-muidhe track at 118565: 12km; 1180m

Monday 6 October – Glen Leven

Today’s forecast was for 60mph winds at 900m, gusting to 70mph, so the “Munro Bagging” group joined the “Classic Walking” mid-level group. We started at Callert on the Kinlochleven road (095603) and followed the right of way north to the first col. A few guests were prepared to tackle Mam na Gualainn (796m, a Corbett), so we headed up the broad ridge. At the top the wind was about 50mph, gusting to 60mph. We continued along the ridge over Beinn na Caillich, and then dropped down the well-graded zig-zag path which joins the West Highland Way on the old military road, which we followed into Kinlochleven for our pick-up.

Tuesday 7 October – Mamores

Overnight snow was lying down to about 400m, and gale-force winds were again forecast. My original plan for a day in the Mamores had been to climb Binnean Beag, Binnean Mor and Na Gruagaichean, but given the conditions I decided to try something shorter and just aim for Sgurr Eilde Mor.

Our bus took us to Mamore Lodge (185629) from where we followed the track towards Loch Eilde Mor, then taking the clear stalkers’ path at 208635 which heads NW then N to Coire an Lochan. Although the lowest-lying snow was clearing in the morning sun, by the time we reached the Coire in the lee of the overnight winds the path was completely covered, with drifts up to a foot deep. The surrounding snow-covered mountains looked splendid against the blue sky. Fifteen minutes later we were crouched in a small hollow sheltering from a 50mph hailstorm while we grabbed a quick lunch!

Coire an Lochan, later in the day

With fresh wet snow on the rocks and boulders of Sgurr Eilde Mor, a 260m climb fully exposed to the wind, and plumes of spindrift being driven off the summit it was an easy decision to abandon any further climbing. We crossed to the SE corner of the Lochan and headed down the slope near the outflow stream, soon picking up another well-made stalkers’ path which joins the lochside track at 222638 for a return to the Mamore Lodge Hotel bar.

Wednesday 8 October – Glencoe

My day off, and although it was a clear morning the gales were continuing. I opted for an easy day and set off to climb Sgorr na Ciche (the Pap of Glencoe), which I hadn’t climbed before. Thanks to David C for giving me a lift to the start. The path to the top is clear, and though steep in parts is well graded. I was lucky to be able to enjoy the all-round views from the top.

Back down, I walked through Glencoe village for coffee and carrot cake at Crafts & Things (at the end of the village on the A82), called in to buy some new gloves at Glencoe Gear and Guides next door, then as there wasn’t a bus for an hour and a half walked back to the house.

From the old Glencoe road at 111586: 745m; 3h15′ up and down.

Thursday 9 October – Grey Corries

Beinn na Socaich – Stob Coire Easain – Stob Coire an Laoigh – Caisteal – Stob Coire Cath na Sine – Stob a’ Choire Leith – Stob Choire Claurigh* – Stob Coire na Gaibhre*

Our redoubtable driver Rosemary of White Heather Travel in Fort William drove us up the track towards the forest from Corriechoille. A short negotiation with the keeper and stalkers who flagged us down saw us on our way on the understanding we were headed for the Grey Corries, but it was made clear we weren’t to take the bus any further up the track.

Just before the forest gate the old rail trackway which used to serve the aluminium works in Fort William crosses the track. We followed it two and a half kilometres SW to a stile into the forest, forced our way through to a forest track and headed S to the dam on the Allt Choimhlidh. A path over a stile by the dam leads a short distance up the E bank of the river to a crossing point. Some managed to cross dry-shod, others opted for wet feet. The crossing would be more difficult with the river in spate.

Above the Dam on the Allt Choimhlidh

We took a fairly direct diagonal line up the long grassy slope, reaching the ridge of Beinn na Socaich at a height of about 800m. From now on we were exposed to the gale-force winds, which were blowing from the NW or W. Intermittent mist and rain alternated with brighter periods and the occasional glimpse of blue sky, but the wind was always with us, blowing at around 50 – 55 mph and gusting to over 60mph, when staying upright is difficult.

Once we had reached Stob Coire Easain we turned E with the wind more or less behind us, and the chain of summits followed one after the other. The rain became more persistent but the wind moderated a little. It was a relief to start the descent to the last top, Stob Coire na Gaibhre, which from this direction is hardly more than a bump in the N ridge of Stob Choire Claurigh. We finally got out of the wind as we lost more height, but by this time we had been in the full force of the gale for 4 hours. Eventually we dropped down the last steep grass slope to join the forest track near the top gate and set a quick pace back to Rosemary waiting with the bus.

The Grey Corries
(inset) Tony, Martin, Jennifer, Peter

From Corriechoille forest track at 253794 : 18km; 1600m; 7h45′

Friday 10 October – Black Mount

Stob a’ Choire Odhair

Once again the forecast gales called for a change of plan and I decided to head for Glen Orchy in the hope that we could approach Stob a’ Choire Odhair from the sheltered side. Despite warnings from the King’s House hotel that vehicles were having difficulty crossing Rannoch Moor we made the journey without any trouble – though Rosemary said later that her return journey heading into the wind was “interesting”!

The climb from Forest Lodge via the Allt Toaig and a well-graded zig-zag stalkers’ path up the SSW ridge of Stob a’ Choire Odhair was uneventful. We came into the wind about 1km from the summit and about 200m below it, but it was much gentler than the day before – perhaps only 40mph. It was still too cool to linger on the summit, but we did stay for a few minutes looking at the view into Coire Ba and over to Rannoch Moor. We came down by the same path, and from Forest Lodge carried on down the road (here also the West Highland Way) for a kilometre to wait for the bus in the Walkers’ Bar of the friendly Inveroran Hotel.

From Forest Lodge (270423), returning to Inveroran Hotel (274414): 12km; 840m; 4h15′

Introduction

When no other plans emerged for a summer mountain trip, with some misgivings I booked a week’s hillwalking with a guided group. The trip was organised by North-West Frontiers in Ullapool. We were to be based in Struy, at the bottom of Glen Strathfarrar, and hoped to enjoy what the brochure described as a “strenuous” walking holiday.

I have mostly walked the Scottish hills alone or with a friend. On the few occasions I’ve joined a group it has been either to learn new skills or, as on Skye, because I thought the technical difficulties were more than I could handle on my own. For me, there’s no doubt that having a guide/leader to take responsibility detracts from the mountain experience by reducing its intensity, and this has to be offset against any advantages – and this week there were advantages. Transfers to and from Inverness, and all the logistics of the week, were sorted for us, including the day we took a boat up Loch Mullardoch to save a long walk in. And with a guide who knew the area well we didn’t need to spend time route-finding, so we could move that much faster.

But I think the biggest advantage on this occasion was just being part of a group. These are big hills, and the approaches are long. We did some long and tiring days. I know that walking solo, morale can easily drop, and I’m sure I wouldn’t have achieved as much if I’d been walking alone or with just one other person. Coming down from Maoile Lunndaidh on Friday, knowing that once we reached the bridge by the loch we still had an hour and a quarter’s walk to get to Monar Lodge, the road, and the minibus, I thought how easy it would be to feel very lonely and isolated on one’s own in this vast scenery. So on balance, yes, this time at least it was better to have been part of a group.

Diary

So there we were, 8 punters – sorry, clients – and our guide. He was Ben Lowe* [see footnote], and we were, in alphabetical order, Ian, John, June, Ken, Mark, Sandra, Tom, and me. All of us were unrepentant Munro baggers – except Ken, who, it turned out, had climbed them all several times, along with everything else in Scotland that raises its top more than a metre or two above the surrounding landscape.

The Motley Crew
Me, Ben, John, Sandra, Mark, June, Ken, Ian, Tom

Munros in bold, tops in normal text. All grid references have prefix NH, and are on OS 1:50,000 series sheet number 25.

Sunday 27 July – Glen Affric

Tom a’ Choinich – Toll Creagach West Top – Toll Creagach.

Sunny and warm early on, showers developing later. Clear on the tops, with good views, except in the showers. Setting the pattern for the week, June led us off at a cracking pace with Sandra close behind. Today Mark clocked up his 50th Munro.

From CP by bridge at 215242 and return: 16km; 1110m; 5h03′

Monday 28 July – Glen Strathfarrar

Sgurr na Fearstaig – Sgurr Fhuar-Thuill – Creag Ghorm a’ Bhealaich – Sgurr a’ Choire-Ghlais – Carn nan Gobhar – Sgurr na Ruaidhe.

A good path up from the road in the glen, eventually sweeping round the head of the corrie to the col. Some steep descents and long trudgy ascents. Picked up a good path by the stream on the way down. White lichen shining like newly-painted waymarks on the rocks. Sgurr a’ Choire-Ghlais was my 100th Munro.

From junction at 223392 to junction at 283386: 17km; 1560m; 5h55′

Tuesday 29 July – Loch Mullardoch

An Scocach – An Riabhachan West Top – South-west Top – An Riabhachan – North-east Top – Sgurr na Lapaich – Carn nan Gobhar.

Danish Karl operates a boat up Loch Mullardoch during the summer until the stalking season: we all managed to squeeze in. A long climb up An Scocach to start, but a much better mountain than expected. An Riabhachan was Tom’s 200th Munro. By the time we got to Sgurr na Lapaich, most of us took just under half an hour to trudge up the steep grassy slope from the col to the top, but Ian raced ahead to be chased and overtaken by Ben. Could it be he felt his status as Mr Superfit was at stake? As we started the final climb of the day from the col below Carn nan Gobhar an eagle sailed effortlessly from the rocks near the summit above and disappeared over An Riabhachan.

Tom’s 200th Munro – An Riabhachan

Boat to landing at 141312, return to dam at 220316: 20km; 1740m; 8h13′

Wednesday 30 July – Glen Strathfarrar

Not an official rest day, but I declined an easier day with the group who headed for a local Corbett. Instead, I walked up Glen Strathfarrar taking photos. The rest of the gang were in the Cnoc Hotel bar when I got back there about 4 o’clock.

Glen Strathfarrar

Thursday 31 July – Glen Affric

(Carn Eige) Sron Garbh – Stob a’ Choire Dhomnain – Carn Eige – Mam Sodhail – Mullach Cadha Rainich – Sgurr na Lapaich.

The weather had broken by today – damp, drizzly, and driech. We went into the cloud as we approached the col east of Sron Garbh, and stopped on this first top to put on all the clothes we had. On top of Carn Eige there was a brief debate about Beinn Fionnlaidh, 2km north. To include it meant a fair amount of extra ascent and descent, including an akle-twisting ascending traverse on steeply sloping ground to avoid re-climbing Eige before heading south to Mam Sodhail. Ben was non-comittal, and we wavered until it dawned on us it was already 2 o’clock. When we worked out that doing Fionnlaidh meant we wouldn’t be back at the hotel until 8 – 8.30, to Ian’s great digust and disappointment we decided to leave it for another time. Instead, we nabbed the two tops on Mam Sodhail’s ESE ridge.

From CP by bridge at NH215242 and return: 24km; 1420m; 8h03′

Friday 1 August – Loch Monar

Maoile Lunndaidh.

A long drive up Glen Strathfarrar to the roadhead at the dam, then an hour and a quarter’s walk along the lochside to the start of the climb. This “level” section adds 145m of ascent in each direction. Everyone felt tired today, and the climb, although easy and on a good path for much of the way, seemed especially hard going. Cloud hid the views at the summit, and we didn’t linger. The lochside walk out was made even more tedious by the worst midge attack of the week, but at least it kept us moving.

From dam at 203394 and return: 23km; 1100m; 6h34′

To summarise . . .

A good haul of Munros – 13 in the week, and a further 10 tops. We were a good group, unusually well-matched for ability and fitness, so we kept together and moved fast – most days! In the end, the week was uneventful, neither any mishaps nor any outstanding highlights. But the weather was mostly good, and the scenery, although too big for my small camera to do it justice, was impressive. The week certainly lived up to its “strenuous” billing!

Total ascent for the week – 6930m

Accommodation

Most of the group were staying at the Cnoc Hotel in Struy, and taking evening meals in the hotel restaurant. The hotel was full by the time I booked, so I stayed the first five nights at the Edmonds’ B&B at Carnoch Farm, joining the rest for the evening meal in the hotel. Thanks to John, Ken and Mark for lifts to and from the B&B. For the last two nights, the Cnoc had a wedding booked, so the group moved out to Carnoch Farm, and I shifted to the Glass Restaurant‘s B&B, also in Struy.

Carnoch Farm

About 5km from Struy on the road (A831) towards Cannich at GR 380360 (OS sheet 26). A friendly welcome and a comfortable, if small room – OK for a single but it would be a tight squeeze as a double. Other rooms are larger. More geared to fishing folk – the Edmonds own 2 miles of fishing on the Glass. Hillgoers are received with a slightly bemused tolerance.

Glass Restaurant and B&B

Here’s a surprising find! Douglas “Dougie” Brown is a trained chef who runs a classy – and not cheap – restaurant in out-of-the-way Struy, and has a few rooms which he lets out for B&B. All the food’s fresh and cooked to order, though sadly with the arrangement I had, I didn’t have a full meal there. 9 marks out of 10 for the breakfasts, though – porridge on request, fresh fruit and plenty of orange juice, and toast in whole slices not triangles. The cooked breakfasts looked good too. I’ve withheld the last mark because there was no wholemeal toast – “no demand”, according to Dougie.

My room was large and comfortable, though basically furnished (no hanging space, only drawers). There’s one en-suite room. But over-riding everything was the friendliness of the welcome from Dougie and his helpers: the invariable answer to any request was “No problem!”. The place is open about 7 months of the year. It’ll help avoid confusion to know that if the restaurant’s web-site is still showing a picture of an older, bearded man smiling at you over the bar, that’s not Dougie but the last owner but one! [Update, August 2015: Dougie has left the Glass Restaurant to start a new venture, The Letterbox in Newtonmore. The Glass Restaurant is now part of the Struy Inn.]

Cnoc Hotel

Although I didn’t stay here and only ate in the restaurant, my impression was of a welcoming and professionally run hotel. The evening meals were good: the only serious criticism being that the menu hardly changed all week. Perhaps their patrons don’t often stay for more than a day or two. For “strenuous” hillwalkers, an occasional pasta dish would have been welcome. Halibut appeared as a special towards the end of the week, but for an area where fishing is a significant activity and source of income, fish dishes were notable by their absence, although the seafood platter starter was consistently popular. The hotel also offers bar meals.

Links

The Glen Affric and Strathglass website is an excellent place to start for information on this area. All three places mentioned in the accommodation section are in here. The Cnoc Hotel has its own website too.

The North-West Frontiers website is here.

*Footnote, 2015 – Ben Lowe

Sadly, Ben Lowe died far too young in March 2015.