Bude to Crackington Haven

2 May 2024

Getting there: Train to Okehampton, bus to Bude.

Overnight: Brendon Arms, Bude

Distance on Coast Path: 16.6km; ascent: 542m

Total distance: 16.9km; ascent: 542m

Walking time: 4h 31′

Total time: 6h 11′

Overnight: Brendon Arms, Bude

Feeling optimistic that the weather forecast would be correct I stepped off the terrace of the Brendon Arms in Bude in full waterproofs with “On The Road Again”^* playing in my head. As I reached the top of the cliff after leaving the town steady rain and a blustery wind failed to dampen my spirits: that was achieved by mud. Lots of it. Slippy, slidey, stick-to-your-boots mud. After a while I noticed something unusual: my boots were foaming! I worked out that the proprietary cleaning gel I had lavished on them before I left home must have left a residue which the rain and general wetness was washing out.

The forecast was right – the rain stopped and the sky cleared by around half past 11, although the wind kept blowing. The Path followed a familiar pattern of cliff top walking, a few down-and-up valley crossings, a few out-and-back headland visits, and the sandy beach of Widemouth Bay. There were very few people on the trail apart from dog walkers where there were car parks close to the Path.

The coast near Crackington Haven (looking north)

After Widemouth Bay the Path follows the coast road for a kilometer or so as it goes steeply uphill. Two short off-road sections have been made close to the road, but there was so little traffic and so much mud on the paths that I stuck to the road until the Path left it at the top of Penhalt Cliff. Shortly after at Millook, where another short section of road walking ended, I met the only other Path walker of the day. We spoke briefly before she walked on ahead of me.

Crackington Haven

Finally arriving in Crackington Haven I found the café of the Coombe Barton Inn was closed but the Cabin Café was open so I had a cup of tea and a flapjack while I waited for the bus back to Bude.

* Canned Heat, not Willie Nelson.

The Brendon Arms, Bude