Title: A Guide to Zermatt and the Matterhorn
Author: Whymper, Edward
Published by: Gaston's Alpine Books & West Col Productions
Year: 1974
First published: John Murray, 1897
Date reviewed: 05.07

This is a facsimile edition of Whymper’s "Guide" of 1897, 32 years after his famous but tragic first ascent of the Matterhorn. Guidebooks were a good money-spinner for Whymper, who was well-known for his "Scrambles Amongst the Alps" and "Travels Amongst the Great Andes of the Equator". In this volume he covers the Mattertal and Saastal in detail, including their history from around the 14th century onwards – times in which the Bishop of Sion was the most powerful person in the region.

The conquest of the Matterhorn naturally features in the Guide. Earlier unsuccessful attempts are covered, including a solo "scramble" by Whymper in 1862 which ended in a slip he was lucky to survive. Eventually reaching the inn at Breuil his head wounds were treated by rubbing a mixture of hot wine and salt into them. He comments "Whether their rapid healing was to be attributed to that simple remedy, or to a good state of health, is a question. They closed up remarkably quickly, and in a few days I was able to move again."

There are many revealing glimpses of earlier times. In Switzerland and Italy, Central European time was 50 minutes and 39 seconds ahead of Paris time, which in turn was 9min. 21sec. ahead of Greenwich. Trains leaving Geneva for France left on Paris time, those heading into Switzerland kept Central European time. Soap was apparently scarce in Alpine regions, and the traveller is advised to "carry a cake". Aspiring scramblers were advised to take their boots out with them, get them into use before starting, but have them nailed on the spot.

The main content of the book is sandwiched between advertisements – for the mountain hotels (many of which still exist), for cameras and ropes, travel guides and Swiss champagne, railways and medicaments (including Dr J Collis Browne’s Chlorodyne, for the treatment of coughs, colds, asthma, bronchitis, diarrhoea, dysentery and cholera).

Altogther a fascinating book. I’ll take it with me next time I visit the Valais.