Food

There’s not much to say about the food on our journey. For lunch we bought rolls, cheese, ham, sausage, cakes, fruit and so on where we could or bought filled rolls from bakers’ shops. The local plum cake, more like plum crumble, was also a hit with most of the group. Dinner was either in the hotel restaurant or somewhere else local. It was the asparagus season so most places had an asparagus-themed menu alongside their standard offer. Travellers in Germany have to accept that there’s little variety – one restaurant menu is much like another so which one you choose is just a gamble. The only exception was the two nights in Dresden where we ate in two different Italian restaurants. John eats fish but not meat but we had no problem finding places where we could all eat.

Wine

Sachsen (Saxony) is the most easterly of Germany’s wine-growing regions and one of the most northerly wine regions in Europe. It stretches for about 30 miles from Pillnitz in the south to Dresden, Radebeul and Meissen and covers about 460 hectares (1,140 acres), making it Germany’s third smallest region. There is evidence¹ that vines have been grown in the region since at least 1161. The vineyard area was smaller, about 200 hectares, before German reunification in 1990: expansion has been funded with European Union subsidies². I was told that the area under cultivation is still increasing and historically has been much larger.

In 2009 production in the region was 951,100 litres which is only 0.1% of Germany’s total. 81% is white, 19% red (2010/11 figures)³. The three main grape varieties are Müller-Thurgau, Riesling and Weissburgunder but many others are grown in smaller quantities, including Grauer Burgunder, Spätburgunder, Roter Traminer, Kerner, Dornfelder, Goldriesling, Scheurebe and a rarity, Dunkelfelder.

Sachsen does not produce wine on a large scale agribusiness basis. The vineyards are divided into small plots that are cultivated by more than 3,000 small independent growers. The three biggest wine producers are the Saxony wine cooperative in Meissen (Bereich Meissen) with about 1,600 members, the Saxony state winery at Schloss Wackerbarth and the only quality-certified winery in Saxony, Schloss Proschwitz owned by Prinz zur Lippe⁴. As well as Schloss Proschwitz there are about a dozen independent producers who produce wine under their own name: Walter Schuh, Jan Ulrich, Vincenz Richter, Frédéric Fourré and Drei Herren are some of them.

The wines are mostly dry (trocken) or semi-sweet (halbtrocken).

I was surprised that the producers make hardly any effort to promote their wines to visitors. We walked past the premises of at least three growers: they were all firmly closed. In contrast to France, Spain or Italy there was no invitation or opportunity to visit, taste, and buy. There isn’t much point in creating a weinwanderweg if there’s no wein available. In cafés and restaurants there were wine lists with a selection of wines but that was all. Our vision of strolling through vineyards and dropping in to the occasional weingut for a tasting and a chat was just a fantasy. In fact the only promotional activity for the region as a whole seems to be an annual festival in October but even then the ‘open vineyards’ event only lasts a day and a half. Blink and you miss it! In Meissen there’s a Sachsen Wine Centre whose leaflet says you can go there to find out everything you want to know about the local wines – but it’s on an industrial estate on the opposite side of the river about two miles from the town centre. So all in all I concluded they weren’t that interested.

The other thing that puzzled me was why all the wine I saw was made and sold as single-variety varietals – the labels named the producer and the type of grape. It must surely take an expert palate and years of experience to distinguish one grower’s Riesling from another’s. I thought the individual producers who were happy to put their name to their wines (as opposed to the ‘area’ wines) would be keen to differentiate their products – blending different grape varieties and producing a set of wines that was characteristic of their weingut. I wanted to ask about this.

In the centre of Meissen there were two retail outlets. Both were expensively fitted-out with discreet lighting and bottles displayed like treasures. In the first one the elderly lady spoke no English so I didn’t stay. The second was much better. It was the Walter Schuh shop and the young assistant who was the only person around spoke good English and was happy to chat. He didn’t have an answer to my question about “Why only varietals?”, but claimed there was significant variation between the wines made from the same grape grown in different vineyards, depending on slope, aspect, soil etc. He offered to arrange a tasting for the five of us in a few days time, but I explained we were leaving the next day.

He told me a little about Walter Schuh’s wines: untypically, about 30% of their production is red. He spoke lovingly of their Dunkelfelder and gave me a tasting glass. It was a dark rich red which reminded me of Cahors, with aromas of plum and blackcurrant, full-bodied and complex on the palate with blackberry ousting the blackcurrant. He claimed chocolate too, but I wasn’t convinced! I would have bought a couple of bottles if I could have taken them on the aeroplane.

So I don’t have extensive tasting notes from the few days we were in the region. Jan Ulrich’s Grauburgunder was light and fresh with notes of honey and melon. Drei Herren’s rosé (I didn’t note the variety) was moderately full-bodied, slightly peppery and very enjoyable. A Kornfelder was rather bland. Schuh’s Spätburgunder was lighter than the Dunkelfelder but a nice well-produced wine.

Most of the wine produced in Sachsen is consumed in the region. Maybe that’s why they don’t work very hard at selling it. I guess it’ll probably stay that way while all the small producers – some of them must just be hobbyists – can cultivate a hectare or two and put their crop through the local co-ops. It seems unlikely we’ll see the wines in our own wine merchants any time soon.

Malerweg

The local tourist board markets this part of Germany as “Saxon Switzerland” (“Sächsische Schweiz”). It’s like Switzerland to the same extent that Crawley is like Prague. But it does have a unique landscape of towering sandstone bluffs and crags and is popular with walkers and rock climbers as well as the German romantic artists who allegedly walked through the region with their easels, palettes and brushes.

The 112km Malerweg claims to be “the most scenic and loved walking path in Germany”. The ‘official’ version follows a roughly circular route starting at Liebethal, north of Pirna, heading generally south-east and keeping mostly away from the Elbe until it crosses the river near Schmilka and heads back downstream to finish at Pirna (see map). The path can be steep where it climbs up and down the various sandstone outcrops but steps or even iron staircases have been installed to make the going easier.

Weinwanderweg

The Sächsische Weinwanderweg was devised in the late 1990s but not officially opened until 2006. Like all such routes it was intended to encourage tourism and publicise the region’s wines. The trouble is that although wine has been produced in the area for at least 450 years many of the vineyards have been lost to expansion of the towns and villages along the river Elbe. Instead of taking walkers through vineyards the route mostly takes them through suburbs. On tarmac roads. “Here on the left”, says the guidebook, “is a fine house that once belonged to a renowned winemaker”. Further along, “The houses on the right are on the site of a vineyard which ceased production in 1934”.

So we found ourselves following roads and from time to time turning uphill, walking along a higher parallel road or track and then returning downhill to the road we had left half a mile earlier. We had walked round a vineyard which no longer existed. ‘Up-along-down’ became a familiar pattern.

Corso Reisen

Clive had booked the holiday with Corso Reisen, a German outdoor holiday company he had used before. They provided maps of the route but no written instructions, arranged our hotel accommodation and organised the transfer of our luggage from one hotel to the next so we only had to carry day rucksacks. Apart from a couple of delays getting the bags to our hotel all the arrangements worked well, though the maps they provided were produced for the tourism market rather than being the higher standard topographic maps which are available for the region (see below).

Travel

Our starting point of Bad Schandau is not easy to get to in a day from the UK. The nearest airport is Leipzig/Halle but there are no direct flights from the London region – you have to change at Frankfurt or another German city. To do the whole journey by train is feasible but means a very early start on the Eurostar from London and a very late arrival (about 10pm) in Bad Schandau. In the end we chose to fly BA from Heathrow to Prague, leaving at 7.55am, and take the train from Prague to Bad Schandau. This is a two hour journey on a European Inter-City train and got us to our hotel some time after 4.00pm.

The return journey from Meissen involved the 7.53am train from Meissen to Prague (changing at Dresden) and the 3.50pm flight from Prague to Heathrow.

Maps

Maps

In the main shopping area I bought two more maps from a large bookshop. There are topographic maps for the region at various scales from 1:15,000 to 1:50,000. The 1:25,000 series produced by the Landvermessungsamt Sachsen (Saxony Survey) was by far the most useful. The maps are fully detailed and seem to be up to date. The most recent ones have pictorial blue covers, older ones still have the plainer green-and-white. You’d need four of these maps to follow our precise route (sheets 30, 34, 40 and 43): there’s a corner around Weinböhla on sheet 34 which is missed by the three I made do with.

Hotels

Our hotels were booked in advance by Corso as part of the holiday package. We’d paid extra for single rooms.

Bad Schandau / Krippen

Hotel Erbgericht

Bächelweg 4, 01814 Bad Schandau-Krippen

+49 3502 886290

www.pura-hotels.de/hotel-erbgericht-profil.html

Originally booked here but bumped to sister gästhaus “Zur Eiche” (same owners) 50 metres down the road. Comfortable room. Breakfast taken in Hotel Erbgericht. No wifi.

Rathen

Amselgrundschlösschen Hotel

Amselgrund 3, 1824 Rathen

+49 3502 47430

bit.ly/P2UV6e

Larger, older-style hotel in the village centre. Busy terrace restaurant, good service. Wifi in reception area.

Pirna

Casa Italiana

Lange Straße 22, 01796 Pirna

+49 3501 585094

www.casa-italiana-pirna.de/

Accommodated in an unstaffed annexe down the street where we were the only residents. The annexe was the most basic of the places we stayed. No soap in rooms. Staff in main hotel not particularly welcoming or helpful. Room looking out over nearby mainline railway – noise through the night. No wifi.

Dresden

AHA Hotel

Bautzner Straße 53, 01099 Dresden

+49 351 800850

www.ahahotel-dresden.de/

Unattractive exterior but pleasant inside. Small secluded garden at rear, but my room overlooked the main road so had to keep windows closed at night – hot with no air conditioning. Wifi in public areas.

Radebeul

Goldener Anker

Altkötzschenbroda 61, Radebeul

+49 351 83990100

www.goldener-anker-radebeul.de

My vote for best hotel of our trip. Friendly efficient staff, excellent large modern room with bath and shower. Good restaurant. Paid wifi in public areas and some rooms (including mine).

Weinböhla

Waldhotel Weinböhla

Forststraße 66, 01689 Weinböhla

+49 352 43410

www.waldhotel-weinboehla.de/

Hotel situated away from town centre, catering chiefly for spa and conference trade. Quiet rooms. Average restaurant (no choice locally). Wifi in reception area.

Meissen

Am Markt Residenz

An der Frauenkirche 1, 01662 Meissen

+49 3521 415161

Hotel and café operation part of but separate from the Hotel Am Markt 6. Good central position just off main square. Small single room. Church clock chimes loudly through the night so closed windows required. No wifi. Apparently no website.

Dresden to Radebeul, 27 May

We’d walked into Dresden alongside the Elbe. The route out headed north away from the river and through Dresden’s urban sprawl. It was the Sunday of the May holiday weekend so almost everywhere was closed except for places catering for tourists and families on holiday. German bakeries also seem to open on these mornings and we were lucky enough to find one before we left the city so we could buy food for lunch. Once out of the city the walking was more varied as our route kept close to the boundary between built-up areas and open country.

The first up-along-down diversion came soon after mid-day. A short steep climb on a well-made path with concrete steps brought us to a local landmark, the Bismarckturm (Bismarck Tower), where there was a bar/restaurant with a terrace. Somehow we ignored the opportunity for a beer and ate our lunch sitting by the tower.

Uniform will be worn at all times! (At Bismarckturm)

View from Bismarckturm

From the tower a straight flight of more than 200 concrete stairs led down to a Wine Museum. We weren’t in the mood to stop and look around so carried on. One more up-along-down got us to the edge of Radebeul: the main road in took us straight to the front of our hotel. It was quite early so we sat in the courtyard with beers while we waited for our bags to arrive.

Radebeul to Meissen, 28 & 29 May

Holiday Monday so the shops were still closed but the baker’s we’d passed on the main street yesterday was open and selling rolls and plum cake. I still had black bread and digestive biscuits bought two days ago.

I don’t remember much about the walk to Weinböhla. It was a fairly short day and the “Tarmac Index” we had started estimating (for Clive’s planned letter of feedback to Corso) was lower – perhaps 60%. I think most of the off-road sections were through woods, quite open mixed woods, light and airy.

In the village of Coswig we passed a memorial to Hans and Sophie Scholl, a brother and sister who were members of an anti-Nazi student group called the Weisse Rose (White Rose). They were arrested and executed in 1943. According to Wikipedia there are many memorials to them: this one was in a private garden and hardly visible from the road.

Later with only a few miles to go we had lunch beside a small lake in the woods. A digestive biscuit sandwiched between a folded slice of black bread was cheap and (allegedly) nourishing if not particularly appetizing.

Lunch Stop

We were so early getting to Weinböhla that we left our rucksacks and went for a walk through the local woods, led by Stuart.

And then it was our last day walking. Again the Tarmac Index was over 50%. Towers are popular features in Saxony: we visited two in the first hour. The first commemorates Baron Karl von Drais who it is claimed – and confirmed by no less an authority than Wikipedia – invented the bicycle in 1817. His machine became known as the ‘draisine’. We diverted half a mile to visit the railway station at Niederau which the guidebook says is the oldest station in continuous operation in Germany, but it wasn’t particularly impressive! Mid-morning we stopped for coffee and cheesecake at a bar/restaurant by a lake at nearby Buschmühle.

Tower number 1

Tower number 2

Roadside Meadow Flowers

Roadside Meadow Flowers

Roadside Meadow Flowers

Just rewards!

A long dreary flat section (though the roadside flowers were beautiful) took us to the range of low hills called the Spaargebirge, the last higher ground before finally approaching Meissen along the Elbe-side cycle track. Just before the bridge leading to the town centre we stopped for a final refreshment break.

Meissen, 30 May

Meissen is one of those attractive small towns that seems designed to be explored on foot. The large central square with several restaurants and cafés lies at the bottom of a steep rock outcrop on which sit a castle and a cathedral. Steep cobbled streets and flights of steps lead from the square to the castle. From the top you look down on a higgledy-piggledy jumble of red tiled roofs. Incongruously there is a modern enclosed automatic lift from the upper level down to a car park in an area away from the old centre.

In the morning Clive and John went off to visit the cathedral and castle while Stuart, Tom and I went to the Meissen porcelain exhibition and museum. The 8 euros entry was good value! Visitors are directed in groups round a series of rooms where craftsmen and women and artists demonstrate the process of making Meissen objects from the raw clay to the finished product. Non-German speakers need the audio guide for their native language. The whole operation is very professional.

After the tour there’s a porcelain shop and a jewellery shop (Meissen jewellery of course), and a whole museum to look round. There are some truly amazing pieces and collections on display. I wanted to find out how the company chose new designs to make and market but I couldn’t find anyone who understood my question (or if they did, was prepared to answer it). Their market is I think deeply conservative because even the latest designs are conventional and in the same traditional line. They do, though, employ a small group of young modern artists from various countries in an ‘Art Campus‘. The artists work on experimental pieces and perhaps influence the development of the brand.

Meissen View

Meissen Marktplatz

Porcelain Demo

Extreme Meissen

Extreme Meissen Swan Service

Untitled

After the Battle

Later I climbed to the cathedral, arriving just in time for the mid-day organ recital. Clive and John were there too. I stayed behind after the recital then came across Stuart in the square outside. We had lunch in a terrace restaurant looking out over the town.

In the afternoon I walked over the river and did a circuit of a few miles through the vineyards and past Schloss Proschwitz, the stately home of winemaker Prinz zur Lippe. Unfortunately the Schloss Proschwitz wine shop and restaurant is some distance away, too far to walk in the time I had.

For our last evening we had dinner in a friendly informal restaurant built into the hillside between the square and the castle, then it was back to the hotel for bed and an early start in the morning.

25 May

This third day was the least enjoyable of the holiday, for me at least. It was rather warm and we spent virtually the whole day walking through suburbs on tarmac roads, first through the outskirts of Pirna then working our way through a succession of nondescript settlements before reaching Pillnitz and on to Dresden. It was our first day on the Weinwanderweg with its waymarks of a little bunch of pinkish-purple grapes, and it was a big disappointment. There’s more about it here.

We left Pirna, crossing the Elbe on a bridge instead of a ferry. After about an hour the tarmac disappeared while we walked on a dusty unmade road alongside a large site processing building and demolition rubble. Then back on tarmac. It wasn’t until we were beginning to think of lunch that we found ourselves in open country, and we climbed a small hillside through woods to find ourselves on a terrace path above – yes! – vineyards!

We ate our lunch before the path took us back down through the vineyard and into the outskirts of Pillnitz, our sightseeing destination of the day. Schloss Pillnitz is a small palace or large stately home built on the banks of the Elbe by Augustus II (Augustus the Strong), Elector of Saxony, for one of his fourteen mistresses. Its style is a Chinese-influenced version of German baroque and it is set in gardens, formal and informal. We spent nearly an hour wandering round, with John taking the opportunity to explain how the Schloss’ gardeners could do a lot better if they took some lessons on garden design – especially topiary – from the English.

Schloss Pillnitz

Schloss Pillnitz

The day was getting on by the time Clive and Tom had finished their ice creams and we were ready for the last leg. The Weinwanderweg tried to avoid the main road into Dresden by taking to the slopes above from time to time. One such diversion took us along the Königsweg, originally created by Augustus as a scenic drive through his vineyards. For the second time that day Clive’s guidebook confused ‘up’ with ‘down’ and ‘right’ with ‘left’ and despite growing misgivings from the rest of us we walked uphill through more suburbs for a hot mile and a half only to decide we had to turn round and go back down without the normal ‘along’ bit. A close-up view of Dresden’s television tower didn’t compensate for the wasted effort. Mutinous voices grumbled about the Grand Old Duke of York but Clive pretended not to hear.

By now John and I had had enough and decided to stay on the main road. The others, ruled by the book, dutifully headed uphill one more time. We met as agreed at a road junction at the end of a bridge known locally as the Blaues Wunder Brücke (Blue Wonder Bridge), so called after the blueish steel with which it’s built.

The final few miles along the cycle path close to the river seemed interminable. Hot, tired, sweaty and with the late afternoon sun full in our faces we made the best time we could along the track, sometimes paved, sometimes tarmac. A distant bridge which we initially thought might mark a point near our hotel where we could break off came and went – it was a new bridge still under construction, too new to be shown on our maps. Even the hotel, when we finally arrived, looked depressing – a rather ugly building fronting onto a main road. I’m glad to say that the first impression was misleading. Once inside it was cool and welcoming, and our rooms were comfortable and well-equipped.

We spent the next day in Dresden.

Dresden, 26 May

I didn’t enjoy Dresden. The five of us went out separately: it’s probably my fault for not doing my research beforehand but I found the concentration of German baroque buildings in the old city – reconstructed after the WW2 bombing – overwhelming and confusing. Add in the crowds of tourists milling around in coach-load sized groups and a general lack of anywhere civilised to sit for a coffee and a break and I was left feeling decidedly out of place. I went into the Frauenkirche but didn’t find it very interesting. I couldn’t face joining the crowds looking round the other sights and museums so I took a break in the quiet of the modern art museum.

Looking for somwehere to have lunch I went into the modern shopping area but the only choices were chain outlets. In the end I broke my own rules and went to a bar/restaurant in the main tourist street where my lunch was as poor as I feared, including half-cooked sausages. I couldn’t be bothered to complain. By mid-afternoon I was back in our hotel.

Comparing notes that evening, Clive had been in his element visiting most of the museums. John’s day had been a bit like mine, and Stuart and Tom had both opted fairly quickly to spend the best part of the day out of the city.

Stuart, John, Clive, Tom, me

All photos on this and following pages © me except ‘Bastei Sentinel’ (CW); ‘Sandstone panorama’ (CW). Canaletto picture of Pirna from www.pirna-altstadt.de/. Please note: I make no attempt to keep external links up to date so they will probably slowly die.

^* Not some of my companions’ real names.

23 May

“Breakfast at 8 o’clock”, announced Clive the evening before, adding that we had to have our bags ready for collection in the hotel reception by 9.00. “Every morning?” we asked. Every morning!

Breakfast over and rucksacks on we headed for the first challenge of the day – a ferry across the Elbe to Bad Schandau proper (we had been staying in Krippen on the opposite bank). This was the first of several ferry crossings over the next few days and they all went without a hitch. The fare for a single crossing varied from 80 cents to €1.10.

In Bad Schandau we spent rather too long shopping for food and last-minute necessities but we did manage to fit in a quick visit to the baroque church. I was particularly taken with an exhibition of modern woodcut prints on the theme of ‘Angels’ which the others ignored. I also managed to buy the only 1:25,000 topographic map of the area available in the town so the day had started well.

We finally left town a little after 10.00. Our first objective was the Lilienstein, the first of the sandstone outcrops on our route. Clive, in Leader mode, was unhappy with the absence of Malerweg signs. With hindsight this was because we weren’t actually on the Malerweg: it passes some kilometres north of Bad Schandau and we wouldn’t join it until we crossed the river again later in the day.

We followed the riverside cycle track and a suburban road to Prossen; then a footpath took us first gently then more steeply uphill. Steel stairs with handrails were in place for the final section up to the summit. The flat top cut by vertical-sided gullies gave several viewpoints over the Elbe valley.

After an equally steep descent back to the river and a ferry crossing we were in Königstein (the town). Clive was delighted to find Malerweg signs at last, but still uneasy as he thought they were pointing the wrong way. We ignored him. With nowhere shady in the centre to have our picnic lunches we started on the moderate climb up to Königstein (the castle). As soon as we found somewhere suitable we stopped to eat.

Clive in Bad Schandau

View from Lilienstein

Elbe Panorama at Lilienstein

Elbe Panorama at Lilienstein

Konigstein Festung

The path led us into the car park at the foot of the castle walls. In German it’s Festung Königstein – Fortress rather than Castle (Schloss) – and an impressive sight. There’s an elevator which goes up the outside of the walls from the car park or, apparently, a lot of steps to get into the fortress itself. We declined the opportunity, opting instead for a coffee (Tom) or beer (everyone else) at the open-air café by the car park. Having introduced the rest of the group to German dark beer (dunkelbier) on our first night, an acquaintance that all except Stuart kept up for the rest of the holiday, I took the opportunity to expand their horizons to include white beer (weissbier). I felt it was my cultural duty.

After descending from the castle the rest of the day was an easy walk through fields, woods and villages a little way above the sweeping bend of the Elbe until we finally reached Rathen and our third ferry of the day which took us back to the north (right) bank and our hotel.

24 May

The highlight of Day 2 was the Bastei (“Bastion”) which we reached just 40 minutes into the walk. It’s another sandstone outcrop, but much larger than the ones we’d visited before. Astonishingly it’s the site of a medieval village and there’s a modern walkway you can follow (€1.50) around the pinnacles and chasms. There’s also an impressive bridge built in the mid-19th century linking two clusters of towers. The Wikipedia entry gives a good history and description.

Bastei from Oberrathen

Bastei

Bastei

Bastei

Bastei Sentinel

Sandstone Panorama

Down from the Bastei and back to the river at Stadt Wehlen for our last ferry crossing. Stadt Wehlen has a “Cyclists’ Church”: we were intrigued to see what that might be. It turned out to be a church with a banner outside announcing it to be a Cyclists’ Church. Apart from that there was nothing inside or out to indicate any connection with cycling. As John helpfully pointed out you couldn’t even get your bike inside to be blessed without carrying it up the steps. We sat in the sun waiting for the ferry (” service on demand”) to see us from the far bank, and sure enough after a few minutes it set off to pick us up.

A short climb through woods and a field path brought us to the village of Naundorf where we lunched beside a pond. Then after a 4km walk along a terrace path through woods above the Elbe with only occasional glimpses of the river we dropped back down to the riverside at the quaintly named Ober-Vogelgesang, “Upper Birdsong” in English – it’s a suburb of Nieder-Vogelgesang (Lower Birdsong).

The day’s walk, and our time on the Malerweg, ended with a long, hot, dreary walk along a tarmac road alongside the Elbe into the town of Pirna. We saw one other walker. Everyone else was on bicycles; mostly heavy, sturdy family models ridden by people of the same type. Bizarre sight of the day: a middle-aged woman on a heavy bicycle with a basket on the front handlebars. In the basket was a small chihuahua-type dog with its head above the basket rim. Attached to the basket – a small pink umbrella to keep the sun off the pooch.

The bad mood the walk into Pirna had put me in was made worse when we reported at our hotel to find our bags hadn’t arrived. Phone calls were made: they were definitely on their way. Pirna is about 25km by road from our last hotel in Rathen. How long does it take, I asked. Loudly. Several times. The others didn’t seem too concerned, and suggested sightseeing. I suggested beer. Stuart backed me up on this suggestion and we walked up to the central square, had a quick look round, and subsided into an open-air café.

An hour later the bags had arrived and a shower and change of clothing put me in a better mood. Pirna’s a nice town whose main claim to fame is that Canaletto painted a picture of the square.

Starting tomorrow we would be on the Wine Trail.

Pirna by Canaletto