We'd been lucky with the weather so far. The high pressure that had arrived while we were at the Oberaarjoch hut had stayed with us. But towards the end of yesterday afternoon (Tuesday) things changed. A high haze turned into cloud and thunderclouds billowed up over the Jungfrau and Mönch from the Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald valleys. We didn't get a thunderstorm, but it was drizzling and murky as night fell.
Up at 0430 and, bleary-eyed, opening the door to the terrace to go to the toilets. Six centimetres of snow! Soft, wet, unfrozen snow. Discussion over breakfast - Jungfrau, or not? The weather looked reasonable - clear, but with some cloud around. Some groups were going to try it, others were deciding not. In the end we hedged our bets - we'd go down to the Jungfraujoch station, have a look at the route, and then decide.
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| Sunrise on the Jungfrau. (Photo - Chris) |
From the tunnel entrance we dropped down onto the glacier and followed tracks towards the start of the ascent. As soon as we moved away from the Jungfraujoch complex we were sinking into soft snow, even on the piste-bashed track. We paused to assess the situation. Fresh snow, no freeze, and we'd already heard one small avalanche somewhere to the south. We all agreed - no Jungfrau today. We'd go a bit further, watch how the other groups were getting on, but not attempt it ourselves.
We watched for a while from near the start of the route, then headed back to the Jungfraujoch, entering at the upper viewing gallery. We sat inside for the best part of an hour with a grandstand view of the parties on the climb, and saw them one by one turn back. We heard later that only one, possibly two, ropes had made it to the top.
Back at the hut that afternoon the weather closed in again. It was snowing by 1530, and visibility for the rest of the afternoon and evening varied from 50 down to a few metres. It was still warm, and no signs of an overnight freeze when we went to bed. We booked 7 o'clock breakfast.
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| John below the Mönchsjoch hut |
My edition of the Alpine Club guidebook Bernese Oberland Selected Climbs, by Les Swindin says
It is sometimes possible (in a very snowy year) to reach the Rottalsattel by ascending SW into the combe directly below the col. The bergschrund below the col is often impassable. This saves about 1hr.
This route was being used when we were there. It looked OK - parties making it to the bergschrund were getting past it near the left side with no apparent difficulty. The only dubious aspect was that any snow- or rockfall from higher up, or from the Rottalsattel ridge, would be funnelled straight down onto anyone on the route in the higher part of the comb below the bergschrund.
| Total height gain/loss (m) | +/- 457 |
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Last updated 22 August 2002