THE PERSONAL COLUMN

THETOUR

My second attempt at this mountain, but Chris' first. See last year's report for a description of the route, and the events leading to my turning back before the summit.

This time we were successful. The conditions were good, and we made good time to the col, up the snowfield and onto the ridge. We climbed the ridge unroped and without crampons. This year I had an altimeter, so I was able to check the height of the point I reached last year (there was a fixed post where I turned back) - it was 3835 metres.

Chris reached the top of the ridge and the fore-summit a few minutes before me - I was going a little slower and like a true English gentleman gave way to two or three roped parties who were moving faster than me. We put crampons back on, and nonchalantly continued unroped to the main summit.

Weismiess summit - going up one side	... and down the other

It was quite busy on the summit. After the usual congratulations and refreshments we set off (roped) down the normal ascent route of the NW flank. This is a glacier route, steep in parts, and passing through some severely crevassed sections. The route was well-trodden, though, and we passed several parties making their way up. We made it to Hohsaas without any problems, and took the cable back down to Saas Fee.

Crevasses and seracs on the Triftgletscher

URL=http://www.tonyturton.com/mountains/alps00/alps00_3.html